It seems wherever in the world we have been people have two phrases about the weather in common: “If you don’t like it, wait five minutes;” and “It usually isn’t like this.” Well, in New Brunswick, we found that just driving over the next hill changed the weather. And today’s paper confirmed they have had twice as much rain as last year. One fellow said, “We didn’t have any spring.” We have been seeing so many spring flowers, we thought it was spring. But as I write this, it is in the 70’s and people are dressing like it is summer in Florida – shorts, t-shirt or no shirt. Alie and I were still bundled against the wind.
Southern Nova Scotia is more heavily populated along the coasts than the other places we have been. (The interior is still pretty empty.) And it is much more geared to tourists. There were five large articulated buses at beautiful Peggy’s Cove just south of Halifax. The light there sits on a large bare rock and the surrounding area is littered with large boulders. Although tourists help the economy, they still fish and an impressive unfinished monument to the fishing life was carved into the granite by William DeGarthe who began the project in his 70s.
Mahone Bay, also very pretty and polished, is home to Amos Pewter. We had seen their work at “The Tourist Trap” when we stopped for lunch. Now we were able to watch them make some pieces. The pewter melts like chocolate at 550 degrees and solidifies almost instantly when poured on a room temperature surface.
Because routine car maintenance took up some of the day, we switched into “destination driving” and shot on down to Yarmouth, a nice town having some hard times. Rudder’s Restaurant was recommended. Ray had “fish and fries” and both were excellent. Alie tried “Acadian Rappie,” a potato and chicken combination whose flavor reminded her of potato pancakes. Although it was late, Ray dragged Alie out to the Cape Forchu Light. Our GPS said it was only a couple miles away – but that was over water. Getting there by land was very much longer. And then, Ray had seen a picture of a woman sitting in a huge chair (maybe twenty feet high) at the light. They had clearly just finished re-landscaping, and the chair was gone. But the 1962 “apple core” light was unusual. It replaced a wooded lighthouse that stood on the spot from 1839 to 1962. And the setting sun on the calm water was beautiful.